CHAPTER 1

The writer hereof was for the first time in Council Bluffs in the fall of 1854, just at the beginning of Omaha, Neb., and the new life given to this new city. At that date, Council Bluffs, the county seat of Pottawattamie, was not of any very extended size, and red men were scattered in and about the city in large numbers, and several Indian traders occupied tents and small trading-posts. As late as this day, the life in this section was very much like the life on the plains, or that of early California. To trace the changes and to collect the historic facts transpiring here in these many years, is a vast job, one that will require time, labor and patience, and then we cannot expect to satisfy every person. Our aim will be to give the most perfect history that extraordinary effort will enable us to do. Of course, we will refer to the notes of Hon. D. C. Bloomer, in the Annals of Iowa, and to old settlers and all records that can be obtained, for facts to make up this history, and in doing this, we will select only the important facts connected with the growth and prosperity of the county. Pottawattamie is one of the very largest, as well as one of the most important, counties in the State of Iowa, and it should become the business and duty6 of every citizen to aid the writer in perpetuating her history. If errors shall appear in this history, they will, in the greatest measure, be chargeable to the sources from whence they will be collected, for in relation to dates and detailed statements we will rely strictly upon the records as made.

In 1854, this county was without a railroad - it was but very thinly settled - the red men made the city of Council Bluffs their home, but to-day this city numbers 20,000 inhabitants, railroads cover its surface, large hotels, stores, mills and machine shops are found everywhere, and the changes have been indescribably great and grand. It would give us pleasure to here write a few pages upon the progress and beauty of Council Bluffs, but this will appear elsewhere in this work, and we will proceed to record some of the history of the county.

Pottawattamie is not only one of the largest, but it is one of the richest counties in the State of Iowa, being forty-four miles from east to west, and possessing a width of about twenty-four miles from north to south. The soil is generally a black, rich loam, and yields abundant crops of all kinds of grain. This county contains twenty-four full congressional townships, six miles square each, and seven fractional townships, containing 960 square miles, or 614,400 acres of land.

The Missouri River meanders along its western border, only touching the bluffs at a single point in the county, leaving wide bottom lands on its eastern bank. The valley is from two to ten miles in width, its narrowest point being near Council Bluffs, and the widest point near the northwest corner of the county. This valley cannot be excelled for grass or heavy crops of grain. The soil is very deep and almost inexhaustible.

The far-famed bluffs skirt the valley, and rise to a height of from 50 to 300 feet, and are generally composed of clay and sand, with only a few exceptions, where stones are found. These bluffs are piled up in every conceivable shape, frequently giving a pleasant view to the eye, and are often compared to distinguished spots in other countries. Imagination points these to represent things living and dead, and often in the summer, when the green grass covers their surface, the traveler is heard to express joy at the "beauty of the bluffs." From their tops the wondering man can have a grand view of the valleys and farms for miles around. The country for a few miles on the east of the bluffs is very irregular and broken, after which it becomes beautifully rolling, having an excellent drainage, and being susceptible of easy cultivation. Numerous streams flow through these beautiful prairies, generally in a southwesterly direction, emptying into the grand old Missouri River. The soil of this section is very much like that of the other river valleys, and extensive crops are taken from it, while the climate is invigorating and healthful. The people who settled here years ago, and were compelled to remain because they could not sell, are now rejoicing over their large fortunes, and enjoying beautiful homes, surrounded by every comfort that wealth and a rich soil can give to man.

The lands that but a few years ago were offered, and some sold, for $2.50 an acre, cannot now be bought for $50 or even $100 an acre in some cases. The settlement and advancement in Pottawattamie County have been constant and rapid, and still the progress goes right along. Even in our days, in this section, we have noticed wonderful changes such as the most hopeful for this county could scarcely have anticipated. We find those who came here at an early day and got lands, and let them pass away at small prices, regretting how little they could see of the future, while others rejoice that they could not sell when they were anxious to do so. The recent fine crops and high prices have given great prosperity to the people of the West and this county.

It is not the intention of the writer to extend his remars in a description of the county, but he will proceed to note down some of the incidents and facts connected with the early history, which extend far back of any written memorials. Pottawattamie County, like other prairie counties, havd been traveled over long before any arrivals from the Old World, by the natives or red men, who were found here by the earliest white settlers. These natives lived upon the wild game, fish, etc., which abounded here in abundance. It is not to be wondered at that the Indians became alarmed and discontented when the whites began to pour into their country, to kill and drive away their game, and to take up their lands. They could not understand why they should be disturbed, or tell by what authority any other people should be allowed to settle upon their undisputed territory.

The white people are constantly "on the make," and learning at a very early day that buffalo and other game were abundant upon the prairies of this section, a number of them came here to seek the furs and skins that were taken by the Indians, and these whites extended their search for game and furs as far West as the Rocky Mountains. It is supposed that the Missouri River was traversed as early as the last century by whites, even to its head. In 1804, the Government first organized an expedition, commanded by Lewis and Clark, to explore these extensive prairies and investigate the condition and length of the rivers coursing through them. This expedition started from St. Louis, and passed up the Missouri River to its source, after which they crossed the mountains dividing it from Oregon, and thence proceeded to the Pacific coast.

History informs us that the Indians flocked from every direction to examine the boats and equipments, and also to solicit presents. Frequent assemblages and talks were held by the commanders of the expedition with the Indians, and one of these friendly meetings took place at a point near the northwestern corner of Pottawattamie County, causing that spot to be called Council Bluffs. In time, a fort was erected at or near this spot, by the United States Government, and it was designated on all the maps of the northwest territory, for fifty years, as "Council Bluffs." In 1853, the citizens of this county seat, by a special act of the General Assembly of this State, adopted the name, and now Council Bluffs stands among the greatest cities of the Northwest, and is the terminus of the Union Pacific Railway.

The dealers in furs and hides of various kinds, continued in their hazardous and profitable business, and for the first half of the present century, their agents, many of them French, or descendants of Frenchmen by Indian women, labored incessantly in propelling their loaded boats or canoes up the rapid Missouri River, where they traded with the Indians for furs, etc., and then loaded the same boats, and floated back to St. Louis. This was the constant work of many persons for years. Some of the old traders are still living in this county, and they can give many interesting facts in relation to the early trials and adventures of the border people. Mr. Francis Guittar, who was a trader among the Indians, relates the circumstance of his encampment under the bluffs, when on a trading expedition, in 1827, fifty-five years ago. He still lives in Council Bluffs, and is in the enjoyment of excellent health, and present the appearance of a man of fifty or fifty-five years.

The traders had their regular camps, or trading points, along the Missouri River, and the Indians usually understood when to be at their stopping points, and would be on hand with their furs and pelts, to trade for such articles as they wanted. One of these stations was situated at what was known as Hart's Bluffs, in 1824, but is at present known as Mynster's Springs, where an abundance of water gushes from the bluffs at that point. It is also stated that farther down the river, and near the southwestern corner of the county, was another celebrated post for Indians and traders to meet, know as Traders' Point, where Peter A. Sarpy, a noted character in all these regions in the early days, had his headquarters, and accumulated a fortune. Mr. Sarpy, like many other Frenchmen, married an Indian woman.

It is impossible for any writer, however well posted in relation to names, events, dates or discoveries, to satisfy all classes as to the facts. Speculations have always existed and will exist to the end of time as to the derivation of Indian names, etc. Each writer has his own speculation or the speculation of some one who professes to be posted in relation to the meaning of the Indian names, and in a recent article in the St. Louis Globe-Democrat, we find the name of Iowa discussed at some length. It cannot fail to be interesting to the people of this county and the State, to here transcribe some of the speculations of the writer of this communication, in relation to the meaning and the derivation of the name "Iowa." Indian tribes generally have their own ideas and meanings in relation to all names, and they generally give things names to represent objects either imaginary or real, but as frequently imaginary. In early days, on the plains, hundreds of Indians would assemble at some point, and there have a dance in worship to the God of game particularly when game was plenty. They named the rivers and streams in accordance with some of their crude ideas of deity. The writer has had many a conversation with various tribes, and he found that all had some vague idea of a great Ruler,, or Rulers, for most the tribes have various gods. They have the god of fowls and fishes; the god of buffalo, elk and deer, etc. They worship these separately, and in their season, and on occasions of this kind they dance, race and feast in a style that would put to shame most of the jubilees gotten up by the more civilized races, for their enjoyments seem to be complete. No bickering is found in the camp, but each and all make the best of the occasion.

A writer to the Globe-Democrat gives as the derivation of the name "Iowa," "Ah-hee-oo-ba," meaning "sleepers." But another correspondent to the same paper, who claims to be posted in relation to the tribes of Iowa Indians, and signs himself "L. F.," says: "It is well settled and understood that the State was named from the River Iowa, and that the river derived its name from the Indian tribe of that name. The Indian word was Kiowa, and so it is printed on the early maps of the Territory. Two traditions exist in relation to this tribe. One comes from the Omahas, who called them the 'Gray-Snows,' from the fact that they left the parent tribe in the far north or the Superior country during a snow storm, and the snow falling and mingling with the sand, gave it a gray appearance, hence the term 'Gray Snows,' or those who went off in the 'gray-snow.' We are here informed that the Indian word was 'Py-ho-ja,' which was corrupted by traders to 'Py-hoo-la,' and then Anglicized to Iowa. The writer is of the opinion that this version is quite mythical, if not very questionable."

But we will now follow the second and more reasonable tradition, as given by this correspondent. The history is very interesting, and will bear being repeated here. The writer says: "The probable correct tradition is that these Indians came from the upper lake region. They were originally called the 'Pan-hoo-chees.' Nearly two hundred years ago, a large body of the tribe started off southwestward with their chief, Man-han-gaw. They crossed the Mississippi River, moved southward, and settled on the west bank of the Kiowa River. They established a village, which they named Ne-o-ho-nee, and became prosperous, and this excited the jealousy of the marauding Sioux on the north. They were strong and powerful. The question arose, how to destroy their head, and the Sioux, with their traditional deceit and treachery, sent a deputation to Man-han-gaw to invite him to join with the Sioux in a dog-feast. They present him with a pipe of peace, and smoked it with him as an earnest of their good faith. After a long consultation and earnest entreaty, Man-han-gaw accepted. He paid the penalty for his trust by being assassinated, an act of treachery which was never forgiven or forgotten. Man-han-gaw was succeeded as chief by Ma-has-ka, or White Cloud, a direct descendant. He was a noted warrior, and tradition says, led his braves successfully through eighteen battles with the Sioux. He was never beaten, but in consequence of his success was betrayed and assassinated. He was succeeded by his son Ma-has-ka, from whom the county of Mahaska derived its name. Continuous wars reduced the tribe so that in 1824, when the old Fox chief, Black Hawk, in his triumphal march westward, came upon them, they were completely destroyed as a tribe and fled across the Missouri River, or were scattered over the territory. Subsequently, when the Foxes, under Black Hawk and Sacs, were defeated and conquered by the whites, they formed a part of the confederation of the remnantsof the conquered tribes in the territory of which were Foxes, Sacs, Pottawatomies and Kiowas. This confederated body was called Musquakie, a small remnant of whom still exists in Tama County."

Again, we are told on the authority of one "who had much to do with the Fox and Sac Indians, who was personally familiar with their traditions, and was personally acquainted with Poweshiek, Wapello, Kenesaw, Keokuk, Mahaska and other prominent chiefs, and who often sought out the traditions of the tribes, that the word 'Kiowa' always meant 'crossing over,' whether used by Fox, Sac or Pottawatomie. This meaning is in consonance with later history. The Musquakies of to-day use the same word in the same sense. So when the offshoot of the Pan-hoo-chees crossed over the river, they called the river Kiowa, or the river they crossed over. Tribes eastward called them Kiowas, or the Indians who crossed the river. When Black Hawk, in his march, entered the territory west of the Mississippi, he called it Kiowa, or where he crossed over. When the earliest white people came to the territory, in advance of settlements, at the trading-posts, when the bands of the several chiefs came in, and were asked where they came from, the replyl was 'Kiowa Chedapa,' or across Skunk River, Kiowa meaing over or across, and Chicaqua Skunk or Stinking River, so called form the wild onions found in profusion along its banks. Perhaps they would say 'Ne-ko-ma-puk-a-chee keo-sau-qua-sepo-kiou,' meaning their ponies had run away across the dark river. Ne-ko-ma, pony; puk-a-chee run away; keo-sauqua, dark, inky; sepo, river; and kiou, over. In whatever connection the Indians used the work 'Kiowa,' it signified over, or the act of crossing. It had no other meaning, and every tribe in Iowa so used it."

This writer to the Globe-Democrat further says: "There is no poetry in it. Every one familiar with Indian history knows their vocabulary was formed from events. Words took rise from circumstances, and one word was frequently used to express many things, or was interpreted, together with some sign, gesture or incident, to vary its signfication. From Mahaska I, down to this time, Kiowa as signified crossing over, and that antedates Black Hawk's expedition across the Mississippi. It may be well here to remark that the Indians from the south to the north called the Des Moines River (Keo-sau-qua Sepo), or dark, inky, rolling river, from the black color of the water in the spring and fall, the result of the washings of the burned-out prairies along the banks."

It may be interesting to many of the readers of this history to know the derivation of some of the Indian words, and for this reason, we will quote the following from a writer who claims to be versed in the Indian language. He gives a number of words in Indian with the translations, as follows:

Indian....English
Miss-sisk....Grass
Mis-sis-ke-kon....Weeds
Mis-is-que....Medicine herbs
Mis-sis-ke-wa-keck....Field of luxuriant herbage
Mis-ku-tak....Meadow

The writer interprets this last word as being "derived from miss, prairie, and Shu-tak, fire, literally meaning grass fire, and idea apparent to all conversant with burning prairies." It was from these names that the Mississippi River was so called, as will be shown by this quotations from the same writer, who says: "The meadow or broad-grass lands along the river were called Mis-ke-tak, and the Indians who occupied the adjoining lands on either side, were called 'Mis-she-ten,' or 'Meadow Indians.' The river was called 'Mis-sis-wa-keek,' sepo, or literally, Meadow River, or river of Meadows or grass."

Here we will give the French rule as it appears in history.l It is stated that Marquette, in 1673, recorded the name Mississippy; Claude Dablon, in 1671, had it Mississippo; Francia LeMercieu, in 1666, wrot it Messipi; Hennipin, in 1680, wrote Mechaspi, and D. Coxe,, in 1689, Meschasabe.

This will show that the writers attempted to enunciate the articulate sounds of the Indian speech. The same sound in the above quotations are attempted to be given in similar character in English.

Some of the Indians here described, came to this country with the Pottawatomies, and remained here until their removal from this section to Kansas. The red men have always, and in every country, given way to the sturdy, industrious white poeple, and the same results will continue until the whites will hold every foot of land in the United States.

As late as 1856 and 1857, the Indians, we are informed by Hon. C. D. Bloomer in the Annals of Iowa, had free access to the streets of Council Bluffs, and traversed many sections of this county. At this time the Omahas and Pawnees predominated, the Pottawatomies having removed farther south. These redskins did not stand upon any ceremony when they desired to visit the houses of the whites, but came and left at pleasure and without invitation. We re here told, "they would open doors and walk into a house with the most astonishing coolness, and when they could not do this, they would plant themselves before the windows and watch the movements of the inmates." At about this time, "Mr. Francis Guittar, kept an Indian grocery store, on the corner of Broadway and Main streets, and here the Indians assembled in large numbers, when shooting at dimes, jumping, running, dancing and singing were indulged in, and enjoyed by the crowd. Mr. Guittar having passed many years among them as a fur-trader, could speak their language readily," and could explain to the assembled audiences the meaning of the red people, and also their wants.

The same writer describes a lively scene that took place in this city in 1855, on the occasion of the Indians receiving their annual payment from the Government in gold. He says: "Very soon the intelligence spread abroad that the Indians would arrive to buy horses, and in a short time nearly every horse and pony in the place were on the streets for sale. The red men were quite good on a bargain when horse flesh was to be bought, and trading went on actively all that day. Horses and ponies were flying in every direction, red or white riders showing them to the crowd. Gold was the only medium of exchange that passed current, and eagles were traded for horses and ponies in large numbers, and when night came the Indians retired to the bottoms with their animals, while their former owners were engaged in counting up their gold." Those who have seen one of these gatherings, can understand what a lively time it makes. Many of the Indians got on "high horses," while some of the whites take a jubilee over their gains.

But these will again recur to the Pottawatomie Indians, from whom this county takes its name, and in referring to history we find that this tribe lived in Indiana, the southern part of Michigan and eastern part of Illinois, before removing to Iowa. We are told "their early history was very obscure," and yet we learn that the "United States has had more business transactions with them than with any other Indians." It is stated that they were received into the friendship and protection of the Government, by a treaty, as early as the 9th of January, 1789; and since that time, and previous to their removal to Iowa, the Government held thirty-five treaties with this nation."

In history, it is stated that, "in 1755, the French, Pottawatomies and other Indians of the West, were combined in a war against England, which caused a gloomy prospect for the future growth of the colonies, and the emigration to the West, for a time, was nearly cut off." The "British determined to retrieve their possessions in the West, and for this purpose sent out two regiments of veteran soldiers, under command of Gen. Edward Braddock, who had learned the art of war on the battle-fields of Europe, but had little idea of Indian warfare. He landed at Alexandria with much pomp and show, and being clothed with the fullest power of the King, he was treated with the greatest attention by the Governors and officers of the colonies, and the expectation of success reached the highest pitch. With the skill of an experienced General, Braddock soon had everything in readiness and with unusual dispatch, marched with his army across the Alleghanies, and was descending the Monongahela, when, on the 9th of July, they met with the combined force of the enemy, who were concealed in ambush. In almost an incredibly shrot time, seven hundred men and their officers lay dead on the field, and the advance column, panic-stricken, commenced a flight which nothing could check. The General himself fell, and that proud army, which in the early morning had crossed the Monongahela, in gallant array, with drums beating and banners flying, fled like sheep before wolves - abandoning their cannon, amunition and their wounded to the unmerciful foe. Prominent among the red men of the West, who achieved this signal victory, were the Pottawatomies."

We find that in "the war carried on against the English, after Great Britain and France had made peace, under the lead of Pontiac, the Pottawatomies were the first to join the confederacy, and took a prominent part in the siege. In the summer of 1790, hostile demonstrations were apprehended from the Indians of the Wabash Valley, and Col. Hammer was directed to advance into that country and endeavor to bring them to terms." On the "30th of September, he left for duty, with 1,000 men, but when he arrived near the Miami of the Lakes, he met with combined forces of Pottawatomies, Shawnees and Miamis, and was forced to make a disorderly retreat, with a loss of nearly one-third of his men."

"This invasion of their country by Col. Hammer was considered by the Indians as a declaration of war, and the Pottawatomies, notwithstanding they had been received into the friendship of the United States Government, joined the Miamis and other hostile tribes against the whites.

It will be observed by this history, that the Pottawatomies, long before removing to Iowa, figured extensively in the battles of this country. They occupied the position of friends to our Government until they supposed their country was to be taken from them, and when this time came, they were ready for battle. In whatever place we find this tribe of Indians, they appear to have held important posts - seemed to be leaders. In 1812, they are found, after some hesitancy, taking sides with Tecumseh and the British, and during the war they remained, on that side, but after the treaty of Ghent, they again returned and placed themselves under the protection of the United States Government, and an agreement was entered into between them and the Government to mutually forgive and forget past difficulties. Pottawattamie County, like these Indians, will occupy a prominent place in the history of the State of Iowa and the nation.

End of Chapter 1

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