BUCHANAN COUNTY HISTORY

From the A. T. Andreas Illustrated Historical Atlas of the State of Iowa, 1875

BUCHANAN COUNTY

This county is situated in the northeast part of the state, is the third from the Mississippi River directly west from Dubuque, and in the third tier south from the northern boundary line of the state, and covers an area of five hundred and seventy-six square miles.

SURFACE

The general surface is rolling, undulating and sufficiently uneven to be readily drained of surface water, rendering the soil warm and easy of cultivation. While it is not broken or hilly enough to interfere the least with agricultural purposes, it is sufficiently so to avoid the monotonous sameness of the level prairie, and presents when clothed with the bright emerald green of early Summer, the golden tints of harvest, or the deep, rich hues of Autumn, a landscape at once attractive and beautiful.

Near the streams and water courses, where most of the timber is found, the undulations are not so gentle, being in some places quite abrupt and almost precipitous. There are no swamps or marshes in the county, and very little land that is not susceptible of the highest cultivation. The soil is a rich black loam, having a considerable mixture of sand, of a good depth, with a blue or yellow clay sub-soil. It is very productive, and extremely well adapted to the growth of all kinds of cereals, roots, garden vegetables and fruits, while tame and wild grasses grow with remarkable luxuriance. The average elevation is about three hundred and fifty to four hundred feet above the Mississippi River at Dubuque.

STREAMS

The county is excellently well watered, having within its limits some eight distinct streams, with numerous small branches. The most prominent of  these is the Wapsipinicon River, which passes diagonally through the county from northwest to southeast. This river rises near the northern boundary of the state, and drains not a very wide, but certainly one of the richest valleys west of  the Mississippi. Being fed by innumerable springs and flowing over a pebbly and rock bed, its waters are clear, cold and silvery. Its average declination is some two and a half feet to the mile, furnishing a number of excellent water powers at convenient distances. Its banks, never bluffy, are yet so uniformly elevated as to preclude an overflow of the adjacent lands, even at the highest stage of water, and being almost entirely an outer opening of rock, can not be washed, insuring an easy and cheap improvement of its mill privileges.

The east branch of the river joins the main stream in the northwestern portion of the county, and near the conflux receives the accession of the waters of Buck Creek. Otter Creek rises in Fayette County, and drains the northern and western portion of Buchanan, is a never-failing stream, and furnishes a good water power. Pine Creek possesses the same characteristics, and together with Buffalo Creek, the second stream in size and volume of the Wapsipinicon.

The southwestern portion of the county is drained by Spring, Lime and Bear Creeks, which empty their waters into the Cedar, in which river the southwest corner of the county is situated. It will thus be seen that with these streams, and a large number of never failing springs which abound in all parts, this county is unusually well supplied with living water. Good wells are easily obtained at a depth of from ten to twenty-five feet.

The origin of the sweet Indian name by which the beautiful stream that are so evenly divides and admirably drains this county is called, is wrapped in the mystery of a thrilling legend of two Indian lovers, Wapsie and Pinicon, who chose death beneath its shining waters rather than separation.

TIMBER

Those acquainted with the characteristics of this part of the state, will naturally infer from the above description of the water courses, that the amount of timber land is proportionately great, inasmuch as the timber in this region is almost exclusively confined to the neighborhood of the streams and rivers. This county contains more than the usual proportion of woodland found in prairie counties, which is a strong recommendation to those seeking homes in a prairie state. While the total area is 368,640 acres, there are between fifty-one and fifty-two thousand acres of timber land, or about one acre of timber to every seven acres of prairie, a proportion which few counties, not only in this state, but in the West can show. It is so well and evenly distributed, that no considerable portion of the county is very far removed from an abundant supply of good native timber, which consists principally of the various kinds of oaks,ash,blackwalnut,butternut,maple, basswood, hickory, and many other well known and valuable varieties.

Along the borders of the Wapsipinicon, through its whole length through this county, there is a belt of timber from half a mile to six miles in width, with a probable average of over one mile. In the vicinity of Independence, Quasqueton, and Fairbank, the supply of timber for building purposes and fuel is abundant, while the belt bordering the east branch of the Wapsipinicon, extending into Fayette and Bremer Counties, is very fine. Buffalo Grove in the northeast, and Greeley's Grove in the northern part of the county, are both extensive and valuable bodies of timber.

That bordering on the Wapsipinicon River and Pine Creek, in the center of the county, is much the largest body, covering an area of about thirty thousand acres, most of which is contiguous to Independence. Buffalo Creek, in the southeastern section of the county, is skirted with timber of a good size and quality, as are also Spring, Lime, and Bear Creeks in the southwest, some of the groves extending south into Linn County.

CLIMATE

The climate corresponds with that of other portions of Northern Iowa, and is generally uniform. The winters are cold; the mercury often sinking from ten to twenty-five degrees below zero, yet they are of a steady temperature, subject to but few sudden changes. With a pure, crisp and invigorating atmosphere, with plenty of snow, and the absence of damp, foggy weather which usually characterizes the Winters of this latitude, they are by far more agreeable and healthful than those of the more indulgent South, where frost and snow are scarcely known. Persons suffering from pulmonary diseases find it much more healthful, and better adapted to their condition, than the less vigorous and more changeable Winters of the Middle and Eastern States. The Summers are delightful, the prairie winds which are gentle and continuous, modifying the atmosphere, preventing humidity, and making field labor comfortable and pleasant; while the Autumns are glorious, being filled up with those still, balmy, sensuous, dreamy days that are unsurpassed in any other part of the continent.

The county is uniformly healthy; the miasmatic influences which are always found in new counties, and which were so troublesome in the early settlement of this region, have all passed away, and the few forms of epidemic diseases which prevail, are of a harmless character, and easily cured. The rate of mortality is as low as in any part of the Northwest.

CLASS OF INHABITANTS

The largest portion of the present inhabitants are from Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York, and the New England States, and are an intelligent, wide-awake, progressing people, fully alive to the importance of building up and sustaining good schools, churches, and kindred institutions. There are German and Irish scattered through the county, the greater portion of the latter being in the southeastern townships, and they are mostly enterprising, industrious, and frugal citizens, slowly but surely amassing wealth and gaining influence.

RESOURCES AND PRODUCTIONS

The resources of Buchanan County, like those of most counties in this state, lie in its rich and productive soil. Every variety of produce that can be grown in this latitude, comes to perfection here, and exhibits a size and quality even with the imperfect western cultivation, which can not be equaled in the best portions of the Atlantic States. Wheat and corn are the staples, of which an immense annual yield attests the richness of the soil, while oats, rye, barley, buckwheat, and other grains are produced largely. Potatoes, turnips, parsnips, onions, beets, and all the esculent roots grow to large size, and yet possess an excellent flavor; peas, beans, tomatoes, in short, all kinds of garden vegetables grow in profusion. All the varieties of tame grass grow with all the luxuriance of  their native soil, which, added to the character of the land, generally high and rolling, with an abundant supply of living water, renders it peculiarly adapted to stock raising and dairy operations.

 For a number of years some attention has been paid to raising blooded stock,both cattle and hogs, so that the farmers of Buchanan County can now exhibit stock, which, for quality, will compare favorably with any in the state. Many parts of the county are well adapted to sheep grazing, and those who have engaged in it understandingly, have met with uniform success.

FRUIT

Small fruits are grown with little care in large quantities, and of superior quality. Grapes and plums are produced in profusion, while all the hardier varieties of apples, pears, and cherries, are cultivated with a good degree of success. Though not what may be termed a good fruit country, yet by reasonable care in selecting the varieties, and in affording suitable protection and culture, there is no trouble in raising good paying crops with average certainty.

STONE

Although the quarries in the county are not quite so numerous, and the stone of somewhat inferior quality to that found in some of the adjoining counties, yet there is an abundant supply of a fair quality of magnesium limestone for building purposes. This county lies within the drift region described by Professor Owen, as the largest in the world, and which he calls the "Cedar Drift." The drift rock,boulders, or lost rock, as they are generally termed, are mostly of granite, of various shades of color varying from the black, dark and light gray, to the red, which very closely resembles the Scotch granite. These boulders are large, and more numerous in this county than in any other part of the state, and have been extensively used in the foundations of the better buildings, while large quantities have been shipped.

The foundation of the new State Capitol at Des Moines, is principally laid of this stone; while the foundation and engine house of the Insane Asylum at Independence, is build entirely of it. A good quantity of brick clay, with an abundance of sand, is found in never failing quantities in many places. The lime rock when burned makes excellent quick lime, so that all the necessary material for constructing substantial buildings are found in sufficient quantities to last for centuries.

EARLY HISTORY

A little more than thirty years ago this vast extent of rolling prairie now teeming with life and animation, and dotted all over with the happy homes of an intelligent, prosperous, and wealthy people; these beautiful woodlands and lively valleys which have so often rang beneath the woodman's axe, and echoed the clear joyous shouts of happy childhood; these babbling springs and murmuring streams with their life giving waters, were part of a vast wilderness, the home only of wild animals, and still wilder savages who challenged the advances of civilization at every step, yet in that early day was heard.
"The tread of pioneers Of nations yet to be;"
And small hamlets sprang up along the streams, and here and there dotted the broad expanse of prairie, but faintly foreshadowing the mighty throbs of emigration, which soon swelled the feeble Territory of Iowa, to a proud position among the sisterhood of states. The early history of this county is veiled in much bscurity, yet, from the best information that can be obtained, it appears that in February, 1842, William Bennett, a resident and the first white settler in Delaware County, with his family, came to what is now Quasqueton and built a small log cabin at a point on the east side of the Wapsipinicon, about twelve rods above the present location of the flouring mill, and was the first permanent white settler in the county.

The next who came to the county was S. G. and H. T. Sanford, who were soon followed by Ezra B. Allen. Early the same Spring Doctor Edward Brewer, now the oldest living settler in the county, and Rufus B. Clark and family came and settled about a mile and a half from Quasqueton. Frederick Kessler came about the same time and brought his family. A man by the name of Styles came with his family during the Summer, and for a while kept hotel, the first one in the county, at Quasqueton. Bennett was engaged in improving the water power and erecting a mill, and had several young men employed, who boarded with him. Their names were Jeffers, Warner, Day, Wall and Evens. This mill, which was the first in the county, was raised in October of the same year. During the Fall there came three young men-Henry B. Hatch, who stopped with Kessler, and Daggett and Simmons who worked and lived with Brewer & Clark. Some time during the Autumn a liquor saloon was opened and run for a short time.

There were a few patches of land broken that year, on which a small quantity of potatoes and some other garden vegetables were grown, but there was no wheat raised in the county until the next season. Some time during the Fall or early Winter of 1842, a man by the name of Johnson settled at a point about equally distant from Quasqueton and the present site of Independence. Johnson represented himself as being the famous Canadian Patriot, who had lived for years among the island of the St. Lawrence River. He was accompanied by a rather attractive young woman, whom he introduced as his daughter Kate, the identical "Queen of the Thousand Islands." Subsequent events, however, proved him to have been an escaped criminal, and adventurer of the worst sort. The first marriage which took place in Buchanan County was that of Doctor Edward Brewer and Miss Mary Ann Hathaway, which was celebrated in March 1846. The ceremony was performed by Joseph A. Reynolds, then a justice of the peace for Delaware County.

The first white male child born in the county was Rufus Brewer, now a resident of Independence, and son of Doctor Edward and Mrs. Mary A. Brewer. He was born April 27, 1847. Frederick Kessler had a daughter, now dead, who was born about a year earlier, and was the first white child born in the county. The first death was a boy some seven or eight years of age, and son of John Cordell, who died somewhere about 1843.
The first school in the county was the one taught by Doctor E. Brewer in a small log house, afterwards used as a blacksmith shop in Independence, in the Winter of 1848.
The first post office in the county was established at Quasqueton in 1845, and William Richards was the first post master.

ORGANIZATION

Buchanan County was probably named, and its boundary defined by act of the first Territorial Legislature, which met at Burlington in the Winter of 1837-'8, although some claim that the name was suggested by S. P. Stoughten, the first proprietor of Independence, who was a strong Buchanan democrat-in honor of James Buchanan, President of the United States. Nine years later the State Legislature appointed Thomas S. Denton, of Jones County, Lyman Dillon, of Dubuque, and Sylvester Stevens, of Jackson County, commissioners to select some eligible location for the permanent capital of the county. These gentlemen
met some time in June, 1847, and after due examination and consideration selected the present site of Independence, and gave the place its name.

FIRST ELECTION

The first general election in the county occurred in August, 1848, at which time the following officers were elected to serve one year; Board of County Commissioners, Rufus B. Clark, James Colyer and Malcom McBane; Judge of Probate, Elijah Beardsley; Sheriff, E. D. Phelps; Coroner, Doctor S. McGonigal; Commissioners' Clerk and Recorder, Doctor Edward Brewer; Clerk of the District Court, S. P. Stoughten (Doctor Brewer was previously elected before the organization of the county); Prosecuting Attorney, Elijah Beardsley; Surveyor, Daniel C. Greeley. The total number of votes cast at this, the first general election held in the county, was sixty-two. At this time the county was divided into three voting precincts, viz; Washington, Liberty and Spring. Prior to this the county had been attached to Delaware for judicial and revenue purposes, and some elections, which took place soon after the first prior to 1848. At the first of these elections, which took place soon after the first settlement of the county, Quasqueton was the voting precinct for the entire county, and all of the country to the north and west as far as the Rocky Mountains and the British Possessions.

FIRST COURTS

The first regular term of court held in Buchanan County, convened in the log cabin of Rufus B. Clark, on the 27th day of April, 1849, Hon. James Grant, Judge of the 3d Judicial District, presiding; E. D. Phelps, Sheriff, and S. P. Stoughten, Clerk. The first court, however, which might be called an irregular session, was held by Judge Grant in his buggy, in front of the clerk's office, in the Spring of 1848. He drove up to Dr. Brewer's house, called him out, and inquired what cases were on the docket. The clerk informed him that there were two, when the judge inquired what disposition, in his judgment, should be made of them, and was  informed that one case should be dismissed, as there was no cause of action, and that in the other judgment should be rendered for the plaintiff. Judge Grant directed the clerk to enter judgments accordingly, and drove off without further ceremony. The second term of court was held in the store room of William Brazelton; then in a small building erected for a school house, and in various other places, until the completion of the present court house, in 1857, where it has since been regularly held.

VALUE OF LAND, ETC

Only about one-fourth of the tillable land of the county is yet improved, and wild land ranges in price from $10 to $18 per acre. Improved land varies according to the improvements and location, from $15 or $18 per acre up to $40 or $50. The farm improvements are about the same as other counties in this part of the State, some sections being well improved, with fine, tastily arranged residences, and large barns, with good fences, and orchards, while the improvements on others are quite insignificant, and amount to little, except fencing and breaking.

COUNTY BUILDINGS

The county buildings consist of a court house, jail, and asylum for the poor. The court house and jail occupy about one-half of a block in the center of the original plat of Independence, as laid out by the county. They are situated on the highest tract of land in the neighborhood, and command a fine view of the city of Independence, the valley of the Wapsipinicon, and the surrounding country. The court house is a plain, substantial, two-story brick building. The first floor is divided into light and pleasant rooms for the accommodation of the different county officers, while in the second story is a large and commodious court room. It was built in 1857, at a cost of $12,000, and was erected under the direction of Hon. Oliver H. P. Roszell, who was then Judge of the County Court. The jail and jailor's house is a very neat two-story building, erected under the direction of the county supervisors by John Sunderland, in 1870, and cost, with the jail yard, about $20,000. The jail is built of Anamosa stone, with walls eight feet thick, and contains six cells. The poor farm contains about two hundred acres, is situated some three miles northeast of Independence, and cost, with the improvements, about $8,000.

AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY

The Buchanan County Agricultural Society was organized in March, 1870, as a joint stock company, with a paid-up capital of $6,000. The same Spring forty acres of land adjoining the City of Independence on the west, and nearly one mile from the river, was bought and enclosed with a substantial board fence, eight feet high. A fine half mile track was laid out and graded. Improvements have been made from time to time until it now contains a large octagon fine art hall, costing $1,500, a handsome pagoda, or judges' stand, a good barn, and other stabling for seventy-five horses and fifty cattle, with pens for one hundred hogs and sheep, and a good dwelling house. The first fair was held in the Fall of 1871, $600 being paid in premiums, which have since been held annually, paying from $600 to $900 in premiums. Financially it has been a success, the receipts since its organization being $8,213, while it has done much to encourage and stimulate among the farmers of the county a commendable pride in raising fine blooded stock and other productions shown from year to year. In 1858-'9 an agricultural society was established, but never proving a success, was abandoned after a few years.

RAILROADS

The Iowa Division of the Illinois Central Railroad passes through this country from east to west, dividing the county into two almost equal parts. This road was built by the Dubuque & Pacific Company, and reached Independence in the last days of December, 1859. The Milwaukee Division of the Burlington, Cedar Rapids & Minnesota Railroad passes through the county, its general course being north and south. These two roads furnish admirable railroad facilities, giving it two good and direct routes to Chicago, with one to St. Louis, and so dividing the county as to make all parts of it easily accessible to one or both of these lines.

COUNTY OFFICERS.
The county officers for 1875 are as follows;
D. A. McLEISH, Auditor. D. L. SMITH,
CLERK of the Courts.
JAMES A. POOR, Treasurer. JOHN
HOLLETT, Recorder.
GEO. O. FARR, Sheriff. AMOS ROW,
Supt. of Common Schools.
HORATIO BRYANT, Chairman of Board of Supervisors.

INDEPENDENCE

The county seat and principal town in Buchanan County, is situated on the Iowa Division of the Illinois Central Railroad, -the most northern of the four great trunk lines which, stretching across the State of Iowa, link the old civilization of the East with the progressive development of the West, -at its junction with the Milwaukee Division of the Burlington, Cedar Rapids & Minnesota Railroad. It is sixty-nine miles west from Dubuque, one hundred and forty from Burlington, and is situated on both sides of the Wapsipinicon, which is here some two hundred and fifty feet wide, and spanned by a substantial iron bridge.
The original site was one of great natural beauty, and possessed many decided advantages which have been improved with the growth and development of the town. It is situated upon ground moderately elevated, sloping up from the river, sufficiently rolling to afford perfect drainage, and in some places rising high enough to present elevated and commanding building sites. A considerable portion of the town is built in a natural grove of oaks, many fine specimens still remaining, adding much by their native beauty to the attractiveness of its tasty homes, and broad well-graded streets. The town is surrounded in almost every direction, as far as the eye can reach, by beautiful, high, rolling prairies, dotted here and there with groves, orchards and pleasant farm houses, presenting as fine and attractive an agricultural scene as can be found in the state. The streets are laid out at right angles, running north and south, and east and west, are wide, and in many places shaded with handsome trees.

 The business portion of the town, which is mostly on the east side of the river, is regularly and uniformly built, containing many large and commodious business houses, that are elegant in their finish and furniture, while the dwellings, as a whole, are neat and tasty, with many fine ones, surrounded by ornamental grounds, which exhibit marks of high taste and culture. Altogether, Independence is one of the finest-built towns in Northern Iowa, or, in fact, in any part of the state. The site of the city was selected by the commissioners appointed by the Legislature to locate the county seat of Buchanan County, in the latter part of June, 1847. The ground covered by the original plat was entered at the land office, in Dubuque, in the name of the county, and a portion of it was surveyed and laid off into lots by T. J. Rigand, November 4, 1847.

EARLY HISTORY

According to the best information that can now be obtained, Rufus B. Clark conceived the plan of establishing a town here, and was the first white settler. He located first, with Dr. Brewer, near Quasqueton, and was occupied mostly in hunting and trapping, which induced him to make long excursions through this and the adjoining counties to the north and west. Among the many eligible locations he observed in his hunting expeditions, none struck him so favorably as the site of this town, his practical eye at once discerning the advantages to be derived from improving the excellent water power he found here. As he did not have sufficient means to make the desired improvements, or even to enter the land at government price, he made a trip to Janesville, Wisconsin, and interested N. A. McClure and S. P. Stoughton in the enterprise. The latter returned with Clark, was well pleased with the situation of things, and after remaining a short time, returned to Janesville to obtain the assistance of McClure and others, having agreed with Clark to erect a log house during his absence. On his way back Stoughton stopped at Dubuque and entered a quarter section of land, which included the water power, extending some eighty rods east and west from the river, and the same distance north and south of Main Street.On the 18th of March, 1847, Clark moved up from Quasqueton, coming up the Wapsipinicon on the ice, and commenced his house, which he had ready for occupation early in April. It was not a very pretentious building, being simply a double log cabin containing two rooms, with a hall between, and was situated in the middle of what is now Mott Street, at the intersection of Chatham Street,directly south of Dr. House's residence. There Clark lived with his family, dispensing hospitality to all, his house being the headquarters and general rendezvous for the settlement. In April, Stoughton returned with Samuel Sherwood and T. Dolton, who were to build the dam and mill, and Dr. Lovejoy, who was the first physician in the place. Soon after came A. H. Trask, Eli D. Phelps and –Babbitt, who all boarded with Clark. In the following June came Thomas W. Close, still a resident of Independence, S. S. McClure, and some others, who afterward returned. The second building erected was a store, which stood somewhere on the north side of Main Street, and east of Chatham, and was occupied by S. P. Stoughton, with a small stock embracing only the plainest and most common and necessary goods, which the inhabitants were forced to  purchase, as there was no other market nearer than Dubuque. The third house erected was built of slabs, by Elijah Beardsley. Previous to this, however, the dam and saw mill had been completed, and the first slabs sawed were used in the construction of this house, which stood near where the handsome brick hardware store of W. R. Kenyon now stands. The fourth house was erected by Dr. Brewer, and stood for many years, being used as a residence, boarding house, district court clerk's office, post office, justice of the peace, law, real estate and broker's office, all at the same time. Those enumerated above, with several young men, were the only inhabitants prior to 1849. Although there were a good many came, the place did not grow much for several years. 

         The malarious diseases which always prevail more or less in a newly settled country were very bad, owing largely to the damming of the river and the constant use of river and slough water for drinking. The entire population suffered so severely from ague and malarious fevers, that but few had the courage to remain more than one season. In the Spring of 1848 there were eight families, viz; Doctor Edward Brewer, Rufus B. Clark, Asa Blood, Elijah Beardsley,Thomas W. Close, Almon Higley, William Hammond and Doctor Lovejoy, who, with a number of young men, formed quite a village. These all left before the Fall of 1849, except, Brewer, Close and Beardsley, and a family by the name of Horton came in. In the Spring of 1850 Beardsley and Horton left, reducing the population of Independence to two families, those of Doctor Brewer and Thomas W. Close. During that Summer, William Brazelton arrived with a stock of dry goods and other articles needed in a new settlement. Although his stock was small and inferior, he found a ready sale for his goods, and did quite a flourishing business. Charles Cummings came in and opened a stock of goods the next year.

Some time during the Fall or early Winter of 1848, a small log building was erected a little above the present location of the People's National Bank, in which Doctor Brewer taught the first school ever held in the town or county. He had about twenty pupils, and it is said that the doctor "wielded the birch scepter right lustily," and proved himself a very acceptable teacher. The building was used the following Spring as a blacksmith shop by Charles Robbins, who was the first son of Vulcan that made the anvil ring in Independence. Some time during the Summer of 1850, William Brazelton erected a small building, that among other things was used for a school house, and Judge O. H. P. Roszell taught the first school held in it. The building was used some time for school house, church, court house, public hall and other general uses. In 1848 a post office was established, and S. P. Stoughton was the first post master. After holding the office for a while he turned it over to Doctor Brewer, who held it for six years, and frequently carried the mail to Quasqueton in his vest pocket. The revenue of the office for the first few years was very inconsiderable, not amounting to more than one dollar and twenty-five cents a quarter. The mails were received from Quasqueton, that being the first point in the county to which a mail route was established; and for several years the early inhabitants of Independence were greatly annoyed by uncertainty and delay in receiving their mails, owing to the fact that D. S. Davis, who was largely interested in Quasqueton--at that time a rival town--was the proprietor of the route, having obtained the contract from the Post Office Department at Washington about the time the first settlement was made in Independence. In November, 1847, he sub-let to Trask & Phelps, who run it a while as a horseback route, and then put on a democrat wagon, making weekly trips, which occupied four days. They did considerable shopping in Dubuque, not only for Independence, but for Buchanan County and for various points along the route,and were in high favor with the Dubuque merchants, who were all anxious to obtain the mail carrier's trade. In the Summer of 1849 they sold to Thomas W.Close, who continued for about one year carrying the mail and doing the county shopping, when it fell back into the hands of Davis, who refused to longer give Independence the benefit of the route. Soon after a direct route was established, since which time the mails have been received with the usual regularity.The first marriage which took place in the town was that of Charles McCaffra and Miss Cynthia Messenger, which occurred on September 9, 1847-John Scott, the first justice of the peace for Independence, performing the ceremony. The first birth was Diana, daughter of Thomas W. Close, who was born December 25, 1848.The first death was Mrs. Rufus B. Clark, who died early in September, 1848, and the second Doctor Lovejoy, who died the same month, only a few days later.

INCORPORATION

The City of Independence was incorporated by the County Court, August 6, 1864, and the first election for city officers was held on the 19th day of the following December, and resulted in selecting for Mayor, Daniel S. Lee; Clerk, James M. Wert; Marshal, Henry S. Cole; Solicitor, Charles H. Leavett; Treasurer, Edward Brewer; Engineer, Oliver H. P. Roszell; Councilmen, Richard Campbell, Oliver H. P. Roszell, James B. Thomas, Robert R. Plain, Sanford S. Clarke, Albert Clark, John T. Lyon and Samuel Sherwood, who immediately qualified and entered upon the duties of their respective offices. The officers administrating the present city government are as follows; Mayor, D. D. Holdridge; Clerk, G. B. Smeallie; Marshal, J. A. Davis; Surveyor, D. S. Deering; Members of the Council, Louis Soener, R. O'Brien, E. Zinn, Asa B. Clark, J. L. Woodward, Mitchell McGowen, Charles M. Durham, S. R. Shepley and William Davis.

SCHOOLS

There is no institution in the City of Independence that is looked upon with so much justifiable pride and satisfaction as the public schools. In organization and arrangement, in qualification of teachers, in efficiency of discipline and management, in convenient, suitable and tasty school edifices, it may safely challenge comparison with any other town of its size in the state. Two large three-story brick buildings, one on each side of the river, costing, with furniture, nearly fifty thousand dollars, and having a capacity to accommodate about eight hundred pupils, speaks well for the character, enterprise and liberality of the citizens of Independence. The graded school was established in 1857, and has since been conducted with that ability and success which has given it a high reputation abroad. The regular course in the high school is sufficiently extended and complete to fit its students for almost any situation in life. It is at present under the charge of Professor Brainard, with a corps of fourteen able and experienced teachers. There are two Catholic schools. The Convent of Notre Dame Bonsecour, conducted by the Sisters of Mercy, that has an average attendance of about sixty, and the St. John's Catholic Parish School, which was organized in 1862, by Reverend J. S. Gosker, with fifteen pupils. It now has a regular attendance of about one hundred and thirty, and is free to all who are unable to pay their tuition. The convent grounds are among the finest in the city, and cost upwards of twelve thousand dollars.

FIRE

Until the Fall of 1873, Independence suffered very little from the devouring element of fire, but on the night of the 28th of November of that year, a disastrous fire occurred, which was followed in the Spring by one more destructive in point of property burned, in proportion to the size and wealth of the town, than the memorable conflagration which, a few years since, swept over so large a portion of the Queen City of the Lakes, and thrilled the civilized world with the immensity of its destruction. This first fire consumed one-half of the block on the north side of Main Street, and east from Chatham, reducing to ashes ten business houses, and destroying upwards of $30,000 worth of property, on which there was some $17,000 or $18,000 insurance. This was quite a fire for a town of the size of Independence, but it was so far overshadowed by the gigantic proportions of the second conflagration, that is has been nearly forgotten, and is seldom spoken of by the citizens. This second fire, which was the largest that ever occurred in the history of Northern Iowa, broke out a little before two o'clock on the morning of May 25, 1874, in a frame building on Chatham Street, a little north of Main. It raged with terrific fury for some four hours, consuming thirty-nine business houses, two hotels, two newspaper offices, one church, four dwellings, and two livery stables-property in all amounting to nearly $600,000. In less than six months, phoenix-like Independence arose from the ashes of her past glory more beautiful and elegant than ever before, and now can present a finer and better built business street than any city of its size in the West. A stranger visiting it for the first time would scarcely suppose that but a few short months had elapsed since this handsome street was an unsightly heap of smoldering rubbish.

CHURCHES, ETC

There are seven church organizations having good houses of worship, viz; Presbyterian, Congregational, Methodist Episcopal, German Methodist, Baptist, Episcopal, and Catholic. The Presbyterian Church was organized some eighteen years ago, with less than ten members. It now has a membership of 137, with a neat church edifice, erected in 1868 at a cost of $17,000. They have a fine pipe organ costing $2,500, and the best choir in the city. Reverend W. B. Phelps is the present pastor. The Congregational Church was organized May 8, 1867, with nine members, and has gradually increased until it now numbers eighty members. The Methodists were the first to organize, and the first to erect a house of worship. They now have a large membership and a fine church building erected in 1868. The Baptist and Episcopal both are in a flourishing condition and have commodious houses of worship. The German Methodists lost their church in the great fire of May, 1874, and have since erected a small but neat building. The Catholic Church was organized in 1862 by the Reverend John L. Gosker who has ever since remained its pastor. The church edifice, which cost $13,000, was commenced in 1864. The present membership is 1,000.There is nothing perhaps that speaks higher for the enterprise and intelligence of the community than the valuable public library and pleasant reading rooms, which are both well patronized and supported. Though principally destroyed by the great fire of May, 1874, they have since secured a fine collection of over 500 volumes, and fitted up a suite of pleasant rooms that are well supplied with the best dailies, weeklies, and monthlies published in the country.

The principal streets and business houses are lighted by gas, while they have a regular fire department with a fire marshal and two assistants. The city owns a new steam fire engine, of the Clapp & Jones manufacture, which cost $4,000, and is considered a superior machine, and a good hand engine, which are manned by about 120 men, who, with the hose men and the hook and ladder company, make a very strong fire department. They are thoroughly organized and uniformed, presenting a fine appearance, and affording such excellent protection that a repetition of the last great fire is almost impossible.

INSANE HOSPITAL

During the Winter of 1867-'8 Honorable William G. Donman, then a member of the Upper House of the Iowa General Assembly, introduced a bill for the erection of an additional insane hospital at or near the City of Independence. Through his untiring and well directed efforts it passed the Senate without a dissenting voice, and receiving little opposition in the Lower House, soon became a law, receiving at the same session an appropriation of $125,000. The bill named Maturin L. Fisher, of Clayton County, E. G. Morgan, of Webster, and Albert Clark, of Buchanan, a board of commissioners to supervise the erection of the building. Albert Clark died about one year after his appointment, and Honorable G. W. Bemis, of Independence was appointed to the vacant position. The bill required a donation of 320 acres of land within two and a half miles of the city, which was soon provided for by those interested in the work. The commissioners met in June, 1868, and approved the site, which is on the west side of the river, the east boundary line being about one mile from the river, and made other necessary improvements. The building is a little over two miles from the city upon an elevation gently rising from the river to a height of from fifty to one hundred feet above the surrounding country, giving it a commanding view. It was unbroken prairie and had a good supply of living water. The plan of the building is that drafted and submitted by Colonel S. V. Shipman, of Madison, Wisconsin, and may be described as follows; It will, when completed, present a front view of 762 feet, consisting of a main center building and wings constructed in longitudinal and transverse sections, each receding towards the rear from the center building. The main center building is 60x100 feet, four stories and mansard roof in height. The wings are composed, first of a longitudinal section 45x92 feet, then a transverse section 40x100 feet, then longitudinal section 45x72 feet, then a transverse section 36x87-1/2 feet, then longitudinal section 26x56 feet, ending in a transverse building 35x72 feet. The longitudinal sections are all three stories high with plain slate roof, while the transverse sections are three stories with a mansard roof in height. In the rear of the main building is located the rear center building, the front section of which is 42x60 feet, three stories above the basement, the upper being the chapel, and is connected with the main building by a corridor seven feet wide by twenty feet long. The rear section of this building is 44x49 feet, three stories above the basement, and connected with the fan tower and engine house by a passage-way forty feet long. The engine house, which is directly in the rear of the center building, is 55x115 feet, is one story high with a roomy attic, which is used as a work shop and contains considerable valuable machinery. The chimney, directly in rear of the engine house, is 130 feet high. The base, which is built of granite, is twenty-two feet and six inches in diameter, while the top is fourteen feet and six inches. It is of an octagon shape,handsomely fluted, and took in its construction 250,000 brick. An iron pipe in the center of the chimney carries off the smoke from the furnace, leaving a large vacuum which is connected by subterranean ducts with all parts of the building, forming a superior and effective system of ventilation. The lower portion of the main center building is occupied by the apartments of the superintendent, steward and matron, with rooms for the trustees and accommodation of visitors, while the fourth and fifth stories will be used for the better class of patients. The wings are divided into wards, each of which are entirely separate, and are provided with dining rooms, bath rooms, promenading halls, sitting rooms, water closets, and the attendants rooms, each ward being complete in its self. The north wing, which is now completed, is designed for male patients, but is now used for both, and the south wing for females. The rear center building is devoted to a dining room, kitchen, sitting and sewing rooms for patients, general storage rooms, and sleeping apartments for the female help. Every convenience is being introduced to do away with attendants as much as possible. A car is run in the basement from the kitchen to all parts of the building, and the food is elevated by dumb waiters, one to each section, to the dining rooms, which are situated one above another. By this means the entire hospital can be served with food by one man in twenty minutes, waiters being in each dining room to receive and remove the food from the dumb waiters. The entire building is heated by steam, pure air being driven by fans over radiators and forced into all parts of the building, giving a uniform heat and perfect ventilation. Cold and hot water are forced to all parts of the building by the engine, while the entire hospital is lighted by gas manufactured on the premises. The main buildings are constructed of Anamosa and Farley limestone, which is finely dressed, and at a little distance has the appearance of gray marble. The basements are of native granite, worked from the immense boulders which are found in large quantities in this part of the state. The engine house is also built of this granite, which, owing to the variety of its color, presents a very novel and attractive appearance. The walls are surrounded by a plain iron cornice, with a variegated slate roof, giving to the building a fine general appearance. There has also been erected a large barn, costing about $5,000, with several immense cisterns. The first contract for erecting the two northern buildings was awarded to David Armstrong, of Dubuque, at a contract price of  $86,114. At the end of the first season the commissioners decided that the interests of the state would be better sub served by having the work done by the day, and an amicable arrangement was made with Mr. Armstrong, by which he relinquished his contract. Since that time the work has progressed under the immediate supervision of the superintendent of construction, George Josselyn, who has conducted it in a very satisfactory manner. Appropriations have been made as follows; By the 12th General Assembly, $125,000; the 13th, $165,000; the 14th, $200,000; 15th, $93,900; making a total of $583,900. Honorable George W. Bemis, treasurer and resident director, estimates that it will, when entirely completed and ready for occupation, cost about $900,000, and be the best built and arranged institution of the kind in the West. Its ordinary capacity is 450 patients, although by crowding somewhat, 600 can be admitted. The present number is 230, a larger portion of whom were removed from Mount Pleasant upon the opening of the hospital in 1873.The present officers are A. Reynolds, M. D., Superintendent; Willis Butterfield, M.D., Assistant Physician; George Josselyn, Steward; Mrs. Anna B. Josselyn, Matron.

THE PRESS

The Quasqueton Guardian, was established at Quasqueton, by Rich & Jordan, on the 13th day of December, 1856. It was a seven-column paper, and was ably edited by Doctor Jacob Rich, now political editor of the Dubuque Times. It was removed to Independence and issued its first number from that city, August 5, 1858. Rich & Jordan delivered their valedictory in the issue of May 31, 1864, having sold to S. B. Goodenow, who immediately took charge of the office and conducted the Guardian until July 7, 1866, when he sold to J. L. Loomis, who consolidated it with the Bulletin, under the name of The Buchanan County Bulletin and Guardian. The first number of the Buchanan County Bulletin appeared June 20, 1865, under the management of J. L. Loomis as editor and proprietor. It immediately espoused the Republican cause, and was managed with such good judgment and success as the rival of the Guardian, that in a short time Mr. Loomis bought that office and consolidated it with the Bulletin. About the 1st of April, 1869, he sold the establishment to Judge Wm. Toman, who has continued its publication with marked ability and energy. It is a good paper, devoted to the interests of Independence and Buchanan County, Republican in politics, and neatly printed.The American Eagle was established in Independence, in 1858, by D. P. Daniels, as a Republican paper, and continued such for two years, when it was changed to a spiritualist paper, and the name changed to the Rising Sun. It remained under the same management until 1865, when it was permanently suspended. The first newspaper established in Independence or in Buchanan County, was the Independence Civilian, which made its first appearance May 17, 1855, with B. F. Parker & James Hilleary as proprietors. It was a seven-column paper of some merit, which they continued to manage until in February, 1857, when it passed into the hands of S. S. Allen, who shortly afterwards sold a half interest to G. W. Barnhart & J. S. Cornwell. In the following July Barnhart sold to Cornwell and went West, the other partners continuing the publication until Mar, 1858, when Barnhart returned and bought Cornwell's interest. These gentlemen conducted the paper until the Spring of 1859, when they sold the paper to Cornelius Hedgar, who assuming control, carried it on until August, 1860, and then transferred it to G. W. & W. Barnhart, who continued its publication until July, 1863, when it passed into the hands of the Buchanan County Democratic Association. It continued under this management for about one year, ably edited by honorable O. H. P. Roszell.

 In the Spring of 1864, it was again purchased by the Barnhart Bros., who changing the name to the Independence Conservative, continued it until the Spring of 1872, when W. Barnhart purchased the interest of his brother, and assuming the entire management, has since conducted it in such a manner as to receive a liberal patronage and support. The Conservative is a good readable paper, Democratic in politics, and thoroughly identified with and sustained by the liberal enterprising spirit of progress that characterizes the business men of Independence.

QUASQUETON

Upon the site of this town the first settlement in Buchanan County was made. It is situated upon the east side of the Wapsipinicon River, upon a gently rising plateau sloping back by an almost imperceptible ascent from the river to one of the finest prairies in the county. The town is connected with the west side of the river where there are some fine residences, by a substantial bridge some two hundred and fifty feet long. The name is a corruption of the Indian word "Quasquetuck," which signifies "Rapid Waters". In the early settlement of the
country it was a noted ford, and the different Indian trails from all directions centered here. Although the first settlement was made here early in 1842, yet the town was not laid out until 1847, when it was done by D. S. Davis, and the plat
recorded; but owing to an unfortunate litigation in regard to the ownership of the
land, which continued some six years, rendering it impossible for settlers to secure a good title, improvement was greatly impeded and progressed very slowly. Upon the settlement of this litigation, the place advanced with rapid strides,improvements of a substantial character were made, and for a time it bid fair to become a place of considerable importance. But, failing to secure railroad connections, improvements stopped, and the place has gradually retrograded in
wealth and population until now it contains not more than five hundred inhabitants. The water-power, which is the best in the county, is but partly utilized in running a small flouring mill, saw and turning mills.

JESUP is a beautiful prairie village, situated near the west line of the county, on the Illinois Central Railroad. It was laid out a short time before the building of the road, and was its terminus for several months, which made it for the time quite a business point. It was named in honor of the Hon. Morris K. Jesup, of New York City, formerly President of the Dubuque & Sioux City Railroad. The present population is about seven hundred and fifty, and contains some twelve business houses, three elevators, five wagon and blacksmith ships, a good graded school with four teachers, three churches, two hotels, etc.,etc. It is a pleasant place, a good shipping point, and has a gradual and steady growth. The Jesup Vindicator was established July 3, 1874, by W. A. Hutton, as a six-column, Independent sheet. In the following December it was enlarged, and in April, 1875, again increased to eight columns in size. Soon after the second enlargement, G. E. Marsh bought an interest, and became associated in the management and control. It is a spicy little sheet, strenuously advocating the interests of its town and locality.

WINTHROP, eight miles east of Independence, contains about the same number of inhabitants and business interests as Jesup, while FAIRBANKS, in the northwest part of the county, is quite a pleasant place, and does a good country trade

CONCLUSION

Such in brief is the early history, natural resources, and the present advantages, improvements, and conditions of Buchanan County, which in population, wealth and material resources, may be taken as a fair average of the one hundred counties in the State of Iowa. Dating back but little more than a quarter of a century, to a point of time immediately anterior to the advent of Bennett and others, who were but the advance guards of the mighty immigration which has followed them into this county, we find it the home and favorite hunting ground of the red man. This broad expanse of rolling prairie, that now produces so bountifully under the hand of skillful cultivation, and is checkered all over with orchards, grain fields, and beautiful homes, is the same ground on which painted warriors fought fierce battles, won savage victories, and followed in the exciting chase noble game, which the steady march of civilization has driven westward. Where now solid brick blocks rise in architectural beauty, and elegant homes are found surrounded by the ornaments and luxuries of civilized life, beneath the protecting branches of stern old oaks, and along the grassy margin of the murmuring brook that still flows on "With many a devious turn and dash, With many a silvery water break Above the golden gravel," Many a young forest brave has woed and won his dark-eyed mistress. In truth, this county was a noble heritage to the red man-one which he was loth to leave; but, if noble to the untutored child of the forest, who knew so little of its material worth, how much more attractive and valuable should it appear to the thousands who now possess it, and who are able to understand its multifarious resources.

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